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Sparkys Ice Machine
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Front view of the ice cream counter in Sparky’s framed art on all the walls
Front view of Sparky’s Homemade Icecream Shop
Hand holding ice cream cone in front of artwork on Sparkys wall
Get the dish from COMO’s whimsical ice cream flavor mastermind.
During the cicada swarm of 2011, business for Sparky’s, the popular downtown Columbia ice cream shop, really started to boom. “When we made the cicada ice cream – that’s when it got crazy,” says Tony Layson, manager of 14 years.
The phenomenon even made national headlines, with an article in TIME The magazine states, “The first batch of cicada-flavored ice cream at the Columbia, Mo., joint Sparky’s Homemade Ice Cream sold out before it even hit the display case. After removing most of the wings (some wings were left as garnish for the top layer of ice cream) and legs, the beetles were fully cooked in boiling water and coated in brown sugar and milk chocolate.
“Staff say the cicada remains pure in texture as the taste resembles a peanut. Besides, with so much sugar coating the bugs, you’d never know anyway. The insects were then mixed with a brown sugar and butter ice cream flavor base. And people loved it, if only for the oddity.”
Originally opened in 2003 by Scott Southwick, a local transplant, Sparky’s original intent was to fill a gap Southwick saw in downtown Columbia’s dining offerings. “I don’t think Scott really liked ice cream,” says Tony, “he just did some research and saw the need.”
The brightly painted ice cream parlor can be described as eclectic, to say the least. The store is named after Scott’s beloved dog, commemorated by the now-iconic bulldog statue that stands on the sidewalk just outside the store. Because it’s so lifelike, Tony says passing dogs are generally at a loss as to why it isn’t sniffing them back.
The front window of Sparky’s is lined with a colorful menagerie of crocheted stuffed animals and dolls – flea market treasures given to Scott by a close friend.
The interior walls are adorned with Scott’s personal collection of paintings, mostly bought on eBay or thrift stores, which some would describe as “bad art.” But Scott disagrees, saying he appreciates it when ambition outweighs skill. “I like original paintings by absolute beginners who have thrown themselves into the project and often overwhelmed themselves – making mistakes.”
“Sometimes they’re grasping something fundamental about their subject, but more often they’re grasping something fundamental about the process of making art, the process of taking risks and making mistakes,” says Scott. “I don’t like the term bad art. I’m not calling them bad, but I’m okay with the term ‘failed’.”
Tony says that when new paintings happen to arrive, he and the staff find an empty wall space to hang them on. Every day at least one person asks if the paintings are for sale and the answer is always a resounding “no”.
If the stoic bulldog statue, vibrant colors and eye-catching art aren’t intriguing enough, the range of creatively delicious, homemade ice creams keeps customers coming back.
Sparky’s offers a mainstay of traditional flavors made fresh daily, including strawberry; Chocolate; Vanilla; cake batter; Bubblegum and Cookies and Crème, as well as specialty flavors like Lavender Honey, Carrot Cake, Butter Pecan, and Oreo Speedwagon, a best-selling original that pairs the famous sandwich cookie with coffee. Dairy-free/vegan options like Mint Chocolate Oreo and Blue Orange Agave Sorbet are also available.
Made from natural ingredients, the Sparky’s team uses real foods to color and flavor their ice creams. “People always ask why our mint chocolate ice cream isn’t green. That’s because we don’t use food coloring,” says Tony.
But what keeps the masses at the door and the community talking are the quirky limited-edition creations. For example, Sparky’s recently collaborated with Bangkok Gardens to create a rangoon ice cream with cream cheese, and it’s also launched Jallab, a Ramadan-inspired flavor infused with rosewater and date syrup. “The limited-edition flavors have a built-in FOMO (fear of missing out) — customers know they might miss their chance if they don’t try it while it’s here,” says Tony. Sparky’s is honoring customer requests to bring back limited-time flavors.
“We always think, ‘Would that make good ice cream?’ In the beginning it was trial and error; some flavor combinations worked, some didn’t,” says Tony, describing the less popular biscuits and ice cream sauce. “Creative genius, it works both ways. But now there’s pressure to bring really good flavors to market because that’s what people expect and expect.”
Sparky’s often works with local businesses to create new options like Boone Olive Oil Blueberry Balsamic, Harold’s Donuts Red Velvet White Chocolate Donut, and Uprise Candied Bacon. There are also plans for the future to work with the Ozark Mountain Biscuit Company.
Though his liquor license expired during the height of the COVID-19 pandemic, Sparky plans to bring back his alcoholic ice cream options once they’re renewed. If that happens, a collaboration between Ghirardelli chocolate and Les Bourgeois red wine — the most sought-after flavor of all time — could soon come to fruition.
“We often get customers coming in after they’ve been in the bars as we’re open until 11pm. One night a girl asked for a ‘Cookie Speedway’ ball,” laughs Tony. “So we added Bailey’s to the Oreo Speedwagon and gave it to her — and she was happy.”
Whether you prefer your scoop(s) in a cup or pint, prefer portions in a waffle, cake or cone, play it safe with strawberries, or live with a unique flavor creation like curry or red bean, Sparky’s Homemade Ice Cream offers customers something to enjoy!